Ski & Split Mountaineering on Mount Shasta

The Mountain

Mount Shasta is the second-highest peak in the Cascade Range. It's in far Northern California. At 14,179 feet, it's the fifth highest peak in the state.

Shasta is popular with mountaineers and skiers. Usually, the snowpack on the mountain gets quite deep. Winter storms can deliver hefty snowfall and extreme winds. Most of the winter recreation on the mountain takes place below the treeline. There can be a few good days high on the mountain during the winter months. Yet, short days and brutal conditions usually prevent mountaineers from going to the summit.

The regular climbing and ski mountaineering season begins at the end of April. Conditions become safer, and travel becomes easier with long spring days. Mountaineers and skiers show up from every corner of the country to attempt to climb to the top.

Assessing Conditions

In the spring, long sunny days soften the surface of the snow. Then, cold nighttime temperatures refreeze the sun-softened snow. This melt/freeze process is pretty amazing. It can heal avalanche problems and smooth out old tracks and irregular surfaces. A few good melt-freeze cycles can set the mountain up in the best condition. 

Ski and split mountaineers take advantage of this natural process. Early morning travel is fast and efficient on hard frozen snow. The skiing can get good a little later in the day when the snow softens from the sun's warmth.

The process stops any time a spring storm hits the mountain. Wind, snow, and cold temps can complicate things for teams on Mount Shasta. 

Low visibility can make navigation hard. Too much new storm snow can mean avalanche problems and harsh trail breaking. Strong wind can be more dangerous to climb in. It also hardens and strips the snow from windward mountain features. That snow accumulates on the leeward slopes fast, which circles back to deep snow issues.

One reality of ski and split mountaineering is that conditions are rarely perfect. Even if they are, climbing and skiing a big mountain is challenging. It is essential to know from the outset that success is never guaranteed.

Skills & Fitness

Survival and success require that ski mountaineers put in some work. They need to hone their fitness and skills. Route planning, navigation, equipment management, movement, and decision-making skills are prerequisites. Training a few of these skills close to home might be practical. But, there is no substitute for time in the mountains to develop sport-specific skills.

One of the challenges for aspiring ski mountaineers is understanding their deficiencies. It's hard to assess oneself without context and experience.

Everyone's needs are a bit different. Some people have excellent movement skills and need to get in shape. These people might skin and ski well but tire because they lack strength and endurance. Others might be in great shape but lack climbing and skiing skills. Fitness can't replace skill, and skill is no substitute for fitness. The ski mountaineer needs enough experience to assess their skills and fitness. Only then can one be sure they're on track for safer, more fun, and more successful outings.

Maintaining and improving the skills and fitness needed for ski mountaineering is constant. Experienced ski mountaineers are always preparing and understand it's a long game. It takes patience and commitment.

Challenge & Reward

Ski mountaineering can be full of challenges, but it's also a fulfilling and rewarding sport. You'll make lasting memories and develop strength, wisdom, and courage. You might even meet lifelong friends and have your best days in the mountains.

To learn more about ski mountaineering on Shasta, contact Shasta Mountain Guides. If you're on your way to the mountain, check the Mount Shasta Climbing Advisory.

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